Borobudur, Java, Indonesia

Borobudur, Java

There are few cultures on earth that seem to excite as much wonder in outsiders as that of Java.  The Javanese are renowned for their haunting gamelon music, exquisite dancing, shadow puppets, fabrics, and other delicate crafts.  Monumental architecture, though, does not seem to be on the list of things people praise when they speak of Java.  Perhaps stone seems too heavy, too permanent, for a land we associate with an almost ephemeral beauty. Yet Java is home to one of the world's greatest works of monumental architecture.

Layout of Borobudur

   Called Borobudur, it rises some 115 (35 m) from a gently sloping plain.  The terraced sides recall the ziggurats of ancient Mesopotamia or similar stepped pyramids built by the Aztecs of Central America.  Viewed from above, however, it becomes clear that the aim of the builders in creating the terraces was not height, but shape.  Borobudur is shaped like a three-dimensional mandala, or lotus, the Buddhist symbol of the universe.

Stupas at the top level

     And indeed, Borobudur tells the story of the universe in a series of 2,672 intricately carved stone panels along the walls of the terraces.  The panels take the visitor on a journey or pilgrimage from the lowest plane of existence, through the transition to the spiritual realm, and finally to transcendence, as represented by the 72 bell-shaped stupas at the top, each of which encloses a statue of the Buddha.
      The 9 levels of Borobudur are like a continuously unfolding book, one that reveals more and more as you study it. 

Detail of

 A vast number of tales, both historical and religious are depicted by these carvings which cover at total surface of approximately 27,000 square feet (2.500 sq. m).
     What do we know of Borobudur's history?  It was probably built between 790 and 860 CE. (Some historians give a much earlier completion date, around 825 CE.)  Archaeologists believe that the stones were put in place first and carved afterwards. According to Javanese tradition the name of the architect is Gunadharma, though little is known about him as an individual.    
    For up to 500 years, Borobudur was an active center of worship. After the 14th century it was gradually abandoned.  Political upheavals, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions all took a toll.  By the 18th century it had been almost completely deserted and covered by jungle growth. It was not entirely forgotten by the local population, but it was little used.
   In 1814,  the Dutch archaeologist H.C Cornelius and Thomas Rafferty, the local British administrator in the area, brought Borobudur to the attention of the western world.  That instigated a long series of attempts to restore the monument.  The need for restoration had become especially acute, as Borobudur was constructed from volcanic rock, which is relatively soft and vulnerable to the jungle climate.  At one point in the 1880's, colonial Dutch officials in Indonesia even suggested that the only way to save Borobudur would be to dismantle it entirely and send the panels to European museums.  Fortunately, it was left intact.

   A complete restoration was finally conducted nearly a century later by UNESCO. Between 1975 and 1982 over 600 people worked to clean the panels, install a drainage system, and shore up the sections of wall that had become weak.  In 1991, UNESCO declared Borobudur a World Heritage site.  Today, it is Indonesia's most popular tourist attraction.  Even more important, it has once again become a center of Buddhist culture. Each year thousands of worshipers gather there to celebrate Vasek, the Buddha's Birthday according to the lunar calendar. 

Statue of the Buddha in one of the Stupas

  Like so much in Java, Borobudur seems to touch everyone who sees it. It is a source of wonder, mystery, and beauty.  Truly one of the great monuments of the world.


Links:
The web has a wealth of information on Borobudur and new discoveries about the art and architecture are being made all the time.  UNESCO's World Heritage page is a good place to start.
Australia National University has an extensive research project   and Virtual Masterpieces has an excellent site on the lower so-called "hidden" panels here. 



Photo Credits:
Gunkarta Gunawan Kartapranata, Wikimedia Commons
UNESCO World Heritage